It is the journey and not the destination!

June 2023




Idyllic Engelsviken is best know as a summer paradise with popular swimming beaches, and for fish soup, anchovies, a summer show , and show with Evert Taube, and that's not to bad for a small place.

Engelsviken is a small settlement on Onsøy`s cost a little north of Hankø. It lives approx. 1000 inhabitants in the cozy settlement of older and new houses. In the area around the settlement there are numerous holiday homes. Engelsviken has been inhabited since the Viking Age. The origin of the name Engelsviken is farm Ingjaldsvik, known since Middle Ages.

Engelsviken is a beach resort with a slipway and workshop, fish reception and canning factory. The fishing shop Engelsviken is the second largest port in Østfold (Utgårdskilen on Vesterøy, Hvaler is the largest).

The fish shop at Engelsviken pier has an impressive selection of fish and shellfish in all varieties. Pleasant service tempts you with the delicacies of the sea and it is difficult to leave the store without your wallet getting smaller. It is said that "the world's best fish soup that is not homemade" is served in the building next door to the fish shop. The restaurants very popular and in the evening in summer, a queue quickly forms outside the entrance.

Just west of the pier is Solvika, which is located on Engelsvikøy. The open-air area has a child-friendly sand stand, but also loose rocks. There are great walking areas, and the costal path passes here.

If you arrive in Engelsviken by boat, you are guaranteed a very good harbour. You can dock at the guest pier outside Engelsviken. It is at the deepest end, You can also moor deep behind the breakwater at Allmenningkaia, which has depths from 1-3 meters. At the boat shop a little further north in the harbour there is also guest berths. The jetty at the inlet provides good protection from the wind.


When the ice retreated from Østfold for approx. 10,000 years ago the sea was 200 m higher than today. The country rose "rapidly", in the first 700 - 800 years with approx. 70 m. Gradually it has gone slower, but the land in this part of Østfold has risen by 30 cm in the last 100 years. If this continues, the strait at Engelsvikøya will perhaps be a large plain in a couple of hundred years - perhaps farmland.

The medieval settlement

The arable fields south of Engelsviken provided the basis for the development of Haviken and Smauget. The population in the Middle Ages before 1537 is difficult to estimate. But with one average family size of 5 people pr use, we are possible talking about the order of 15-20 people. Probably has some also lived by the fjord. There were also some vagrants and beggars. Around 1800, source show that there are approx. 30 people at Engelsviken. However, the geographical limits of the number are unclear. In 1835, 27 people where registered, in 1865 this had grown to 75 people. In 1875 there were 98 people, while in 1910 there were a total of 294 people. Put another way, there was a tripling of the population in 35 years from 1875-1910.

The farm Engelsviken is probably one of the oldest farms in Onsøy. The name probably comes from the male name Ingjul and the word Vik. It can be interpreted as that Ingjul settled in Viken and cleared residence. This farm is fare from the water today. This may mean that it was built at a time when the water was higher than today. The farm is mentioned in a royal letter from 1369. The written form was then Ingiældsvik. Ingiærdzwigen is also used. Something later is both Ingielsviik, Engelsviken, Engelsuik and Engelsviken used. The farm was so-called royal prooerty until 1658. It was then handed over to Henrik Bjelke at Elingard. In 1688 there is mention of an guesthouse at Engelsviken, possibly at Tangen.

The farm Vestre Engelsviken belonged to Lars Andersen. He has been contralto Engelsviken`s development towards industrial society. He took out commercial letters in 1879, ran a fish trade, set up a country store, started a bakery, was an agent for engine factory in Christiania, and not at least ran the large herring fishery (1877 - 1897). His descendants have carried on the traditions after his death in 1917. Engelsviken Salteri, Engelsviken Preserving and today Engelsviken Canning are stages in the development.

Another fishing industry in Engelsviken which was established in 1890, Th. Johnson & Co. has also contributed greatly to the development from farming to a small industrial society. This company was also a result of the large herring fisheries before the turn of the century. The company had approx. 200 employees before the turn of the century.

And. Johnsen Canning & Co., Chr. Bjelland & Co.A/S and today Troll Salmon AS describes a business development with buying and selling and different owners. In addition to the fisheries, healing in the Arctic Ocean eventually also became an important industry. This was partly a compensation for poor fishing in the 30`s an a new way to earn a living. The catch lasted for approx. 50 years.

Engelsviken aș a fishing port is prominent in Østfold, and also in the national context. The Norwegian Coastal Directorate is currently surveying fishing ports in the country. It is a "product" of the cultural heritage year and should result in "harbour conservation". It is the Ministry of Fisheries which will possibly allocate money for conservation. Conservation in this context is to secure the ports as continued fishing ports.

It is still fishing and fish products that market Engelsviken and provide most of the jobs. Engelsviken Canning is still making its presence felt on store shelves. Emmy and Bjarne Skogen`s fish shop, Troll Salmon and "Engelsviken Brygge" and fish restaurant underline this and carry on the traditions.

Port for troubadours and Swedish prunes

The annual summer performance with shows by Evert Taube has become a legendary fixture in Engelsviken in the summer. This is 19 years since it all started with what was really only supposed to be three summer evenings with Taube songs. The concerts quickly became popular and now there are approx. 30 concerts every summer in Engelsviken. The brewery restaurant, which is decorated like schooner, with mast and tiller, ships bell and fenders, is the best imaginable setting for Evert Taube`s shows. Now maritime and atmospheric surroundings would not be enough if the songs ere not performed well, but the more or less fixed work with a few changes here and there; Hege Elisabeth Klevås Johannesen, Lars Klevstrand, Nissa Nyberget, Rino Johannessen and Hermund Nygård, -most of the Swedish poet and troubadours production is given a design that seduces and touches, calls for laughter and tears, and shows deep insight into Taube`s tonal language and texts. And life. Evert Taube (1890-1976) wrote 57 books, including 270 songs, and the performances often offer approx. 20 show of the Swedish Trubadour. In the summer of 2019, the performance was played for the 22nd year in row.


Engelsviken is located in the northwestern part of Onsøy in Fredrikstad municipality. Onsøy, "Odin`s island", is named after the god Odin. The original Onsøya`s boundary to the north was as late as the 18th century a navigable western arm of Glomma. Old Onsøy municipality (before the merger with Fredrikstad) was approx. 115 square kilometers. 25 % of this agricultural land. The shoreline is approx. 50 km. It is a varied archipelago with 152 islands. Onsøy is today on of the municipal districts in Fredrikstad. Onsøy is second largest of the municipal districts. It is approx. 13,000 inhabitants (20% of Fredrikstad`s inhabitants). It is approx. 3,500 holiday homes with several popular bathing spots. Fish processing companies in Øyenkilen and Engelsviken are still active. The municipal district administration is at Ørebekk, where there is also a health centre, PPT service, social services office, parish office and sheiff`office. The municipal district is assigned responsibility for upbringing and care.

Murphy`s Law

Could we expect something else … Wave Forecast. The wish, was to go far out to avoid underwater cliffs. But probably not a popular choice.



MaudAnother warm day and setting course from Moss guest harbour up north in the fjord. Guest harbour in Sætre, Sandspollen, and Oscarsborg is all occupied. Turning and in Striglesand we find a quiet place beside "Maud"

"It is not my act to mock the noble grape. But even now you should feel a bit of your right element. You are built for the ice, and in the ice you will spend your best time, and there you will solve your task. With our Queen`s permission, I christen you "Maud"

Roald Amundsen

East on a Friday

Regnsky East on a Friday evening, and rain finally appear after weeks of drought.

Awaiting holiday

Svelvik fyr Astor 1 Svelvik Astor Pending scheduled routes.